Jan 152013
 
 Antarctica a wild frontier

Handling zodiacs in Antarctica may look easy but it ain’t!

As members of IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators), we are kept up to date with all sorts of news from the ‘white continent’. Yesterday I got an email newsletter aimed at the field staff of Antarctic ships which reminded me just how wild Antarctica is.

There’s a danger that we think of everywhere being tamed by human technology whereas in fact, there is still very much an element of the unknown and unpredictable when it comes to Antarctica. This is worth bearing in mind for anyone considering a cruise to Antarctica though of course it’s precisely its wild nature which attracts so many of us in the first place.

This week one of the Silversea Cruises had to turn back about 8 days into a voyage to South Georgia and Antarctica because of the severity of the seas – this is in early January. Luckily nobody appears to be hurt but it’s telling that despite all of the preparations and experience, a large, luxurious ship can be sent back to port by the weather.

On a smaller scale, it seems that the ice has been misbehaving this year:

The ice conditions have been a little problematic this year and there have been a number of incidents involving ice closing in on operations. We prefer not to provide the ships’ names here but two incidents were reported in December. The first was at Brown Bluff during a blue-sky day with almost no wind. During the landing, the sea ice moved in very quickly and before the EL (expedition leader) could get all the passengers back to the landing site, the site was completely closed by sea ice. Every technique and possible landing area was used to try and get the boats and visitors off the shore, including man-hauling a Zodiac over the ice. A normal three-hour landing turned into a nine-hour effort to clear the landing site. Nobody was hurt or became hypothermic, and the passengers viewed the event as a bit of excitement and a great bonding event.

The second incident occurred close to Paulet island, where the ice conditions had prevented landing, so it was decided to conduct a Zodiac cruise, as the weather conditions were good: blue skies and no wind. The ice, however, was moving quickly and within 30 minutes of the Zodiacs being in clear water, the ice had moved in. The boats started returning back to the ship, when one of the Zodiacs hit a piece of ice and the engine failed. This Zodiac was soon encircled with ice and the other Zodiacs were unable to pull him out. Finally, the ship managed to break a clear channel for the Zodiac to escape into clear water. In total the Zodiac was stuck for a period of 75 minutes, but fortunately there were no injuries or hypothermia and the operation ended safely.

A common factor in both these cases was that it was a blue-sky day with no wind, but deceptive tidal currents. With both situations, the ELs were highly experienced and dealt with the problems calmly. Thus, other than delays, there were no real issues.

Lessons learned

Incidents will always happen. The trick is to ensure that firstly, those involved have the right skill sets to deal with what is happening and secondly, that lessons are learned.  Each incident provides useful reminders and opportunities for field staff to become more experienced and learn from the episode.

Feedback from the EL on the Brown Bluff incident noted that changes in wind speed, current and tides all played a role in being caught by the ice. For example, these experiences highlight the usefulness of having one or more people responsible for watching the movement of ice, and good coordination with the bridge. Get the bridge to give regular updates, without necessarily being asked, as they have a higher vantage point to those on the landing site. It is always a good idea during Zodiac cruises to buddy up by using two boats, with each always watching out for the other.

Be hyper-vigilant in ice and, of course, when doing Zodiac cruises around icebergs, please ensure that you don’t go over the foot of the iceberg; remain far enough away from the iceberg so that if it should roll or a bit breaks off that you and your guests are not injured by falling ice. Pleneau this season has had very tightly packed icebergs, so it is an area to be super careful when cruising around the bergs. It is worthwhile to refresh your memory on the guidelines for small boat operations in the vicinity of ice.”

I think the above reinforces not just the wild nature of Antarctica, but also the amazing levels of skill and training which Antarctic teams undergo in order to ensure that visitors are kept safe. These people are more than your average tour guides!

If you want to join us in Antarctica, we have some fantastic new options for expedition cruises to Antarctica for the 2013/14 season. Or call us on 01273 676 712, we’re here 9am-6.30pm GMT on weekdays.

Jul 052012
 
 Read the book; then climb the mountain (buying the t shirt optional).

Rugged Andean mountains disappearing into cloud in northern Peru

Over the years I have built up a fairly good-sized library on Latin America (fiction, history, travel writing etc), and would thoroughly recommend one of my most recent acquisitions. OK, I got it for Christmas, but I always have such a stack waiting to be read…

Anyway, 6 months later I finally got around to ‘Andes,’ by Michael Jacobs. Very much a case of, “does what it says on the tin,” this is the result of Michael travelling from one end of the Andes (Venezuela) to the other (Chile / Argentina).

What I loved about the book, other than the fact that it covers many of our favourite and most popular destinations, is the unassuming and straightforward style. This is a guy who has nothing to prove, takes people and places as they come, and avoids hyperbole. I particularly enjoyed the section on northern Peru, such as Kuelap etc, as his observations chimed so neatly with my own when I visited the region recently.

The other wonderful aspect of the book is the interweaving of the history, and especially historical characters, into his meanderings. For anyone who is well-travelled in South America, names which are instantly recognisable (Humboldt, Bolivar, Pizarro etc) appear throughout the book and are clearly well-researched, with comment on the personalities that you often don’t hear. The insights into Humboldt and Bolivar are particularly intriguing.

Interestingly, Michael Jacobs usually resides in another of our favourite spots, the Alpujarra Mountains in Andalucia. And before you say, “Oh, is he the feller who drummed with Genesis and wrote that ‘Lemons’ book?” – no, he isn’t. However, they are good mates – and Chris Stewart somewhat randomly turns up halfway through the book to keep him company for a few weeks. This could turn a into a bit of a palimpsest, but in fact is largely characterised by Jacobs chuckling at Stewart getting asked for autographs due to his new found fame.

So if you’d like to read a great travel / history book focusing on the mighty and mysterious Andes, you could do a lot worse than grab a copy. If you’d like some inspiration on holidays exploring northern Peru, heading down into Patagonia, or travelling through volcanoes in Ecuador, do get in touch.

Mar 132012
 
Eolo1 Argentina Holiday Feedback

The lovely Eolo Lodge on the Patagonian steppe

It’s always lovely to get client feedback. We always ask for full feedback from people when they get home but sometimes we have clients keep us updated as they go – we tell them to just get on and enjoy their holiday but they still do it and we secretly love it…!

This was the start to today from some clients in Argentina:

“Just a quick email to let you know that everything is going well – all the pickups, flights etc on time and with no problems. We had a slightly diffcult drive back from Punta Delgada (Valdes Peninsula) on the gravel roads after overnight thunderstorms but there were no real problems.

All of the hotels have been wonderful and everyone has been very helpful – the trip around Buenos Aires was really enjoyable and we also managed to do a fair amount of walking ourselves. We really liked the wild and remote Valdes Peninsula and the hotel at Punta Delgada is lovely place to spend a couple of days – fantastic wildlife and really knowledgeable guides.

We are now at Eolo Lodge – what a fantastic location! We went walking yesterday afternoon with the guide and today went to the Perito Moreno glacier with a guide from El Calafate – we had a great day and the walk around the point facing the glacier with huge blocks of ice falling into the lake accompanied by the noise etc was an unforgetable experience. Once again our guide was excellent and really knowledgeable. Tomorrow we are doing a birdwatching walk with the Eolo guide to the local laguna and then plan to climb the mountain behind the lodge in the afternoon if the weather is reasonable – it rained yesterday afternoon but today has been much better and the forecast is reasonable for tomorrow.

So, having a great time and really looking forward to the rest of the trip.”
 Posted by at 11:12