Vegetarians avert your eyes…
…la matanza is upon us again. From November through to February is the season to slaughter pigs and cure the meats. Matar is the verb to kill so matanza just means ‘the killing’.
The tradition dates back centuries with the idea that the meat, when fresh, would be kept cold in the winter as it hangs to cure. By the time the heat of the spring and summer arrives, the meats are cured and perfectly safe to be kept at any temperature.
The famous Spanish cured hams, lomo, chorizo and salchichon are really just a means of keeping meat going year round.
The matanza traditionally starts on 11 November, Saint Martin’s Day. In Spain there is a common expression “A cada santo le llega su San Martin” which translates as ‘everyone has their judgment day’.
In rural Andalucía most people keep a few pigs so the matanza is something of a family ritual where all hands to the pump are needed. It’s a really long couple of days work but it’s a jolly affair usually accompanied by lots to eat and drink. I told you this wasn’t great for vegetarians.
You might be glad to know that our holidays to Andalucia are rather more about enjoying the end product of the matanza than being there at the start, our foodie walking holiday in particular.
However, if you do want to go at this time of year, though the weather can be cold, you can help Lola and Armando make their fantastic chorizo.
Jaime Lahoz on the slopes of Cerler in the Spanish Pyrenees
At Pura Aventura we try to make every destination special and different, a key part of that is our guides. They all make the effort to make our clients feel at home and get the most from their holidays. Here we interview our key man in the Pyrenees, Jaime. Or Jaime Lahoz Ortiz de la Tabla if you want all the bells and whistles!
Where do you live?
Cerler, Pirineo de Huesca.
What are your hobbies?
I’m very active. In winter I mainly ski though I also like snowboard and telemark. In summer I mountain bike.
Music is very important for me, I am addicted to Spotify. I recently started learning to play guitar. At this rate, in about 100 years I might make a sound which passes as music.
How did you get involved with Pura Aventura?
I got involved in Pura as a shareholder in 2003 through Xabi, one of the players in my Rugby team and one of the founders of Pura Aventura.
Nowadays I am in charge of our ski holidays here in Celer, although some times move to another areas to help some Pura’s colleagues when they have big groups, for instance in the Picos de Europa.
What do you do with Pura’s clients on a ski week?
Basically I teach the clients to ski or snowboard if someone asks for it.
I am also there to help clients get their equipment, hand out the lift passes, show them around, advise on the best time to hit the slopes, tell them which slopes are best at the moment.
I also am on hand to help them with any thing they need, making life in Cerler as easy as possible for them. I want them to just relax and enjoy their holiday.
Because I live in Celer I know all the restaurants, shops, bars, etc. It means that I can point you in the right direction for the best and most authentic experience.
What is the most important task you have as a Ski teacher?
Sometimes I’ll get a group which includes complete beginners, afraid to ski as well as advanced piste bashers. I try to make sure that every student gets exactly what they need.
The way I teach each person is different. What matters most is that everyone enjoys themselves!
For a beginner it might be enough to learn to slide slowly downhill while I hold their hands. For teenagers in particular I usually have to teach them not to go too fast for their level. I try to make is so that everyone gets to access and enjoy this fantastic environment.
What do you think makes Celer different to other ski resorts?
Lots of things.
It’s big enough to have lots of runs for everyone to enjoy but it feels really intimate. It’s never crowded so you don’t get long queues. Sometimes you will even be on your own on a run. It also means that beginners can learn safely and advance only as fast as they want.
It’s easy to get around the slopes because the lifts are located strategically. From each station there is a ski run for every level, this makes easier to organise groups according to their level.
Cerler is a real village which happens to have a ski resort. As a result, it feels like the real Spain – great food, sensible prices and a stunning environment.
I guess ultimately though it’s the people who make Cerler different. The environment is quieter and more relaxed, I know almost everyone on the slopes. Also, they know that the only British people here are Pura customers and so are always willing to help.
I remember one day one of our clients dropped his passport and wallet on the slopes, without realising it. One of the other teachers in resort found it and, seeing that it was a British passport, came to find me. I gave back the wallet to the client before they even knew it was missing!
I love this story because I think it’s impossible to think that this would happen in a ‘normal’ ski resort. Sometimes a small ski resort can be a great ski resort!
What would you say to the readers of this newsletter?
Come to Spain and discover that my country is more than just sun and beaches. Come to Cerler, improve your skiing and have a lot of laughs. At least I promise to try!
The streets of Alajar village high in the Aracena Hills near Seville
Our new Foodie holiday in Andalucia starts in the pretty village of Alajar in the Sierra de Aracena. The village has a population of less than 500 but incredibly there is of choice of has seven restaurants within the village.
Lucy & Angel, the owners of the hotel where you stay in the village, will talk you through each restaurant – this place is great for jamon, this one has the best paella, that sort of thing.
I visited with a friend and we wanted a long leisurely lunch – very Andalucian! Angel recommended a restaurant that he said had everything – great service, food, wine and ambience. It was Saturday afternoon around 15:00 so it was a late lunch even by Spanish standards.
We wandered down the narrow cobbled streets and commented on how quiet the village was. There were a few dogs wandering around but no other sign of life as all of the shops had closed for the afternoon siesta.
We got to the street where Angel had told us to go but couldn’t see any restaurant – it’s a tiny street in a tiny village so a bit surprising. After checking the address I walked back along the street and noticed a small restaurant sign next to a big wooden door. Aha. I opened the big door and was initially shocked by the noise and life behind it.
It was quite surreal to go from the silence of the empty village streets to the noise of big Spanish families all enjoying weekend lunch. There was certainly life behind those doors.
There were no tables free so we sat in the bar area for half an hour or so just soaking up the atmosphere. We ordered some bellota ham and sherry – yes sherry.
My friend was very dubious about having sherry and I know she was suddenly thrown back to the 80s with visions of her granny sipping a glass of Harvey’s, but sherry in this part of the world is something completely different.
A chilled glass of fino or manzanilla is a perfect accompaniment to the jamon. My friend quickly agreed and now sees sherry in a whole new light. We sat at the bar while the owner of the restaurant carefully and slowly carved the belotta for us. We quickly polished it off.
We then moved into the main restaurant area. Angel had recommended, almost insisted, that we go for the pork steak. It is not something I would usually choose as I find pork quite tasteless at times but I went along with the recommendation.
I was asked how I wanted it cooked – rare, medium - which was a surprise as I didn’t know pork came as anything but ‘done’ – but that is possibly because I very rarely, if ever, order pork off a menu.
Anyway, the meat came and I have to say I had no idea pork could taste like that. It was wonderfully tender, surprisingly succulent and was just served as it was without any need for sauces. It was simply delicious. I am getting hungry just thinking about it.
After lunch we went back into the main bar area to pay and the owner insisted on giving us a ‘chupito’ which is basically a post-meal short drink. Not wanting to offend I dutifully drank it but it kept getting re-filled. It took me a while to realise that it would keep on being filled as long as I kept finishing it … so be warned!
We finally left the restaurant around 18:00 so it was indeed a very long leisurely lunch which the Andalucians would be proud of.
If you would like to enjoy a meal at El Padrino as part of our Andalucía Foodie walking holiday or on our Andalucía Inn to Inn walking holiday then call us on 01273 676 712.