May 032013
 
hiram bingham resting peru 615nat geo We named the dog Thierry.

Thierry Jamin: 21st Century Bingham, or rotter? ( National Geographic)

In my travels I’ve visited a fair few archaeological sites such as Machu Picchu, Kuelap, Tikal, and various other magnificent ruins of ancient civilisations. I’ve certainly harboured quite a few fantasies of stumbling across a jungle-enshrouded temple myself, fuelled, no doubt, by a healthy enthusiasm for Indiana Jones and lesser imitations. That’s what you get for growing up in the ‘80s. To be fair, I’ve done little about it other than daydream about setting off randomly into northern Peru (where folk in the know reckon there’s actually more than a few undiscovered sites).

That’s why a recent story caught my eye, about a Frenchman currently endeavouring to uncover the tomb of the Inca Pachacutec, which he believes to be located in a relatively recently discovered chamber in Machu Picchu. Thierry Jamin heads up the ‘Instituto Inkari,’ an NGO based in Cusco, whose remit is, ‘scientific research, the protection and the development of archeological sites existing on the Peruvian national territory.’ Having been out in Peru for many years seeking the unlikely ‘Gran Paititi,’ (aka El Dorado), in 2011 a much more tangible prospect emerged, when someone found what appeared to be a previously unnoticed entry way in Peru’s most emblematic site.

With the help of some electromagnetic gear, Thierry and his crew announced they had verified the existence of underground cavities, including a large rectangular room, and some steps, alongside some ‘possible’ archaeological materials / metal. Given that most people have long given up the idea that there’s some great ‘Lost City’ still lurking out there, the idea that we could yet see some kind of “Incan Tutankhamen” scenario admittedly quickens the pulse. While one could argue that Machu Picchu is suitably exciting enough, it is, after all, a century since its discovery, so perhaps it’s about time it coughed up something new?

Incidentally, they actually have unearthed several amazing tombs in Peru in recent years, with significant rulers fully intact with their burial booty – they just didn’t happen to be Incas, who are the ones who sell the tickets.

Back to Thierry. The next step, obviously, was to open up the tomb, hope there were no nasty curses waiting to pop out, and revel in the glory of being a real-life ‘Indy.’ And here’s where it gets even more interesting, as the Peruvian Ministry of Culture turned down his request on a number of occasions in 2012. Things went further south this year, as apparently the French Minister of Foreign Affairs warned the Peruvian ambassador that Jamin is not a proper archaeologist, and had no scientific training. Evidently the message was that letting him run amok in Machu Picchu would be akin to lobbing a border collie into a small room full of glass vases. It subsequently transpired that he received death threats, (perhaps from someone who really cared about the threat to Peru’s patrimony?).

A quick browse on Thierry’s websites and several others has him depicted as anything from a noble man of science and history seeking out exhilarating archaeological secrets, to a lowdown huaquero (tomb robber). So, 21st Century Hiram Bingham, or a serious threat to South America’s most famous historical site? The story, I suspect, has a way to run…

If you’d like to see what all the fuss is about, you can delve into Machu Picchu’s secrets yourself on one of our Peru holidays.

 

 

 

Mar 012013
 
coati1 Food for Thought

Sugar with your cappuccino, sir?

 

As anyone who’s spent time in the Pura office knows, delicious food and drink are never far from our lips, and when we’re not consuming it, we’re often talking about it. Aside from our love of the activities, the people, and the great scenery of Spain and Latin America, we all share a passion (obsession?) with the gastronomy.

This week a number of food-related items caught my eye, mainly centred on Peru (which, of course, has the finest cuisine of any of our destinations). First up was a slightly dry piece on the BBC revealing that research has shown that maize was crucial in the development of Andean society and civilisation from around 5,000 years ago. Think about that next time you’re scoffing that ridiculous size tub of popcorn at your local cinema.

Another one, which perhaps it would be wisest not to think about too closely during consumption, was found in this lovely piece about Peru’s finest coffee. Scroll down to the part about the Uchuñari coffee. I’d heard about this sort of thing going on with civet cats in Indonesia, so I was delighted to hear that Peru is getting in on the act, with some of my favourite animals, ‘tejones’ (aka “coatis”, basically a South American raccoon).

Finally this story, which I must admit raised a chuckle, about copycat restaurants. Now, we’re all very familiar with dodgy-imitation football shirts, and I well remember the pride with which my guide in Beijing showed me his ‘iPhone’ (‘looks like an iPhone, works like an iPhone, is a fake iPhone!!’).

In Peru, whose gastronomy is gaining increasing global recognition, imitating the genuine article has taken on a whole new direction, as a glut of restaurants have opened ripping off the name and design of some of Peru’s flagship eateries. I suppose I shouldn’t really laugh, as the people and places being imitated are doing great things within Peru and elsewhere. Still, you have to admire the originality of the imitators…

If you’d like to check out the flavours of Peru, do take a look at our holiday pages.

 

Jan 182013
 
bbc4 Exploring northern Peru and the Chachapoyas people

Lost Kingdoms of South America on BBC4

I got sucked into watching this programme last night, presumably on repeat. It’s an area of Peru we have recently started featuring on our northern Peru tailor made holiday so caught my eye. It took a while for me to get past the somewhat unusual presentation style of Dr Jago Cooper, proto-Jedward hairdo and that machete sticking out of his little backpack just itching to be used a la Indiana Jones. However, get past it I did as in fact he’s clearly enthusiastic about what he does and knows what he’s doing, that and the fact that the places he was visiting were so amazing.

The north of Peru is an area which is really the passion of David here at the office. It was he who created our holiday and he best knows just how amazing the region is. Obviously I’ve seen a lot of the images of waterfalls, citadels, mountains and lakes and they are beautiful. What is less obvious is just how undeveloped the sites are. Having seen all the impeccably preserved and managed sites around Cusco & Machu Picchu, it was striking just how wild these sites in the north are.

As David recounts, when he was at the fortress of Keulap, the jewel of the Chachapoyas region, over the course of several hours he saw perhaps 20 other visitors to the site. In fact there were more archaeologists working on the site than visitors. Imagine wandering around a major archaeological site, effectively on your lonesome, being able to talk to the people actually discovering the secrets around you. As wonderful as Machu Picchu is, and it is beautiful almost beyond words, the Chachapoyas offers something totally different but equally magical.

I know that Dr Cooper’s machete was a pose for the cameras but it’s not far off the truth for any visitors that you can expect to be peeling back the undergrowth to see the handiwork of the Chachapoyas people. The fact that the woman running  the mummy museum in Leymebamba is still the self-same archaeologist who was first on the scene two decades ago to stop the rampant sacking of the sarcophagi is remarkable.

I leave it to one of our recent clients to sum up this loop of northern Peru: “From Trujillo and north to Cajarmarca was stunning and made so by the enthusiasm of Jose whose  knowledge seemed to have no limits. He could have made anything interesting and the sites he took us to were breathtaking. The driver William also deserves a special mention as he navigated us over spectacular passes and through the chaos of Peruvian traffic and downpours.” 

To discuss this holiday, please call us on 01273 676 712 from 9am-6.30pm GMT weekdays. Or visit the Peru holidays section of our website.