Nov 292011

 Darwins FinchesI was just on Yahoo answers this morning and saw someone ask “Why are the finches in the Galapagos Islands called Darwin’s Finches?” which set me thinking about these LBJs (little brown jobs) – the most significant insignificant looking bird in the world?

This was the answer I penned which I thought might be worth putting here for future reference…

To elaborate slightly on previous answers…there are 13 different sub-species of Darwin’s Finch. Each pertains to a particular island in the Galapagos archipelago. That is to say that the same bird evolved subtly different characteristics depending on the local conditions of their island habitat. Where the main food source was a form of nut, they evolved stronger beaks for insects, longer beaks. That sort of thing.

If you go to the Galapagos what you actually see are lots of little brown birds, like a house sparrow. Not at first sight the most interesting bird in the sky. Far from it. It was the same for Darwin who frankly went hunting on the islands. It was only much later in life that he returned to the specimens he had gathered as a young man in the Galapagos and noticed the differences between the finches and between the shells of the giant tortoises and started to really work though his theory of evolution.

In short, those little brown birds don’t look like much but are fundamental to the development of evolutionary theory.

If you are interested in joining us on a Galapagos cruise, get in touch!

Nov 182011

La Matanza Andalucia La Matanza in Andalucia

Vegetarians avert your eyes…

 

la matanza is upon us again. From November through to February is the season to slaughter pigs and cure the meats. Matar is the verb to kill so matanza just means ‘the killing’.

The tradition dates back centuries with the idea that the meat, when fresh, would be kept cold in the winter as it hangs to cure. By the time the heat of the spring and summer arrives, the meats are cured and perfectly safe to be kept at any temperature.

The famous Spanish cured hams, lomo, chorizo and salchichon are really just a means of keeping meat going year round.

The matanza traditionally starts on 11 November, Saint Martin’s Day. In Spain there is a common expression “A cada santo le llega su San Martin” which translates as ‘everyone has their judgment day’.

In rural Andalucía most people keep a few pigs so the matanza is something of a family ritual where all hands to the pump are needed. It’s a really long couple of days work but it’s a jolly affair usually accompanied by lots to eat and drink. I told you this wasn’t great for vegetarians.

You might be glad to know that our holidays to Andalucia are rather more about enjoying the end product of the matanza than being there at the start, our foodie walking holiday  in particular.

However, if you do want to go at this time of year, though the weather can be cold, you can help Lola and Armando make their fantastic chorizo.

Nov 172011

camilo1 Atacama Desert Guide

Over the past 7 years Camilo has proved to be one of our most popular guides so we think it’s time we introduced him properly.

Camilo is an expert in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile, a beautiful area of high desert plains, salt flats, volcanoes, Andean peaks, lagoons and sand dunes.

As he himself puts it, “The Atacama is a unique place in the world, full of genuine Andean tradition, with spectacular landscapes, views and walks. Every spot in the desert and the mountains are something unique, difficult to describe with words. As long as you walk in San Pedro, you are discovering new things”.

Given that altitudes range from 2,000m to nearly 6,000m and the road infrastructure is very limited, it really isn’t the sort of place you would want to be without a guide to show you round. We think Camilo is the best of the bunch.

Incredibly calm, he exudes a relaxed authority which allows you to just hand over the reins of your holiday. As you dig a little deeper though, you might discover a bit more about how much he has done in his time up here. For instance, it was he who was chosen by the government to establish the Camino de Chile (a massively long footpath which will eventually link north to south of Chile) across the Atacama.

He also seems to know all of the many, and increasing, number of observatories up here. He also knows about the wildlife, the culture, the stars, I could go on. He’s a sort of outdoor renaissance man. My mother still goes a little dewy eyed at the mention of Camilo after her trip to Chile in 2009. She isn’t the only one by all accounts.

Camilo’s always up early as he doesn’t want to miss any minute of the day. Most days are spent touring the Atacama whether walking, mountain biking, riding horses or something more relaxed like visiting cultural sites near San Pedro.

For Camilo, the most important thing as a guide is to impart an appreciation of the culture and history of San Pedro de Atacama. He is also passionate about respect and care of the Atacama’s exotic and fragile ecology.

When I asked Camilo about what makes this area different form the rest of Chile he said:

“The Atacama is the driest desert in the world with a unique and fragile ecosystem combining amazing mountains, lakes, little Andean towns and wildlife. And unlike the south of Chile, the sun always appears!”

If you would like to be guided by Camilo then have a look at our Atacama Patagonia walking holiday to Chile, alternatively we offer an almost limitless range of tailor made holidays to Chile.