May 032013
 
hiram bingham resting peru 615nat geo We named the dog Thierry.

Thierry Jamin: 21st Century Bingham, or rotter? ( National Geographic)

In my travels I’ve visited a fair few archaeological sites such as Machu Picchu, Kuelap, Tikal, and various other magnificent ruins of ancient civilisations. I’ve certainly harboured quite a few fantasies of stumbling across a jungle-enshrouded temple myself, fuelled, no doubt, by a healthy enthusiasm for Indiana Jones and lesser imitations. That’s what you get for growing up in the ‘80s. To be fair, I’ve done little about it other than daydream about setting off randomly into northern Peru (where folk in the know reckon there’s actually more than a few undiscovered sites).

That’s why a recent story caught my eye, about a Frenchman currently endeavouring to uncover the tomb of the Inca Pachacutec, which he believes to be located in a relatively recently discovered chamber in Machu Picchu. Thierry Jamin heads up the ‘Instituto Inkari,’ an NGO based in Cusco, whose remit is, ‘scientific research, the protection and the development of archeological sites existing on the Peruvian national territory.’ Having been out in Peru for many years seeking the unlikely ‘Gran Paititi,’ (aka El Dorado), in 2011 a much more tangible prospect emerged, when someone found what appeared to be a previously unnoticed entry way in Peru’s most emblematic site.

With the help of some electromagnetic gear, Thierry and his crew announced they had verified the existence of underground cavities, including a large rectangular room, and some steps, alongside some ‘possible’ archaeological materials / metal. Given that most people have long given up the idea that there’s some great ‘Lost City’ still lurking out there, the idea that we could yet see some kind of “Incan Tutankhamen” scenario admittedly quickens the pulse. While one could argue that Machu Picchu is suitably exciting enough, it is, after all, a century since its discovery, so perhaps it’s about time it coughed up something new?

Incidentally, they actually have unearthed several amazing tombs in Peru in recent years, with significant rulers fully intact with their burial booty – they just didn’t happen to be Incas, who are the ones who sell the tickets.

Back to Thierry. The next step, obviously, was to open up the tomb, hope there were no nasty curses waiting to pop out, and revel in the glory of being a real-life ‘Indy.’ And here’s where it gets even more interesting, as the Peruvian Ministry of Culture turned down his request on a number of occasions in 2012. Things went further south this year, as apparently the French Minister of Foreign Affairs warned the Peruvian ambassador that Jamin is not a proper archaeologist, and had no scientific training. Evidently the message was that letting him run amok in Machu Picchu would be akin to lobbing a border collie into a small room full of glass vases. It subsequently transpired that he received death threats, (perhaps from someone who really cared about the threat to Peru’s patrimony?).

A quick browse on Thierry’s websites and several others has him depicted as anything from a noble man of science and history seeking out exhilarating archaeological secrets, to a lowdown huaquero (tomb robber). So, 21st Century Hiram Bingham, or a serious threat to South America’s most famous historical site? The story, I suspect, has a way to run…

If you’d like to see what all the fuss is about, you can delve into Machu Picchu’s secrets yourself on one of our Peru holidays.

 

 

 

Jan 152013
 
 Antarctica a wild frontier

Handling zodiacs in Antarctica may look easy but it ain’t!

As members of IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators), we are kept up to date with all sorts of news from the ‘white continent’. Yesterday I got an email newsletter aimed at the field staff of Antarctic ships which reminded me just how wild Antarctica is.

There’s a danger that we think of everywhere being tamed by human technology whereas in fact, there is still very much an element of the unknown and unpredictable when it comes to Antarctica. This is worth bearing in mind for anyone considering a cruise to Antarctica though of course it’s precisely its wild nature which attracts so many of us in the first place.

This week one of the Silversea Cruises had to turn back about 8 days into a voyage to South Georgia and Antarctica because of the severity of the seas – this is in early January. Luckily nobody appears to be hurt but it’s telling that despite all of the preparations and experience, a large, luxurious ship can be sent back to port by the weather.

On a smaller scale, it seems that the ice has been misbehaving this year:

The ice conditions have been a little problematic this year and there have been a number of incidents involving ice closing in on operations. We prefer not to provide the ships’ names here but two incidents were reported in December. The first was at Brown Bluff during a blue-sky day with almost no wind. During the landing, the sea ice moved in very quickly and before the EL (expedition leader) could get all the passengers back to the landing site, the site was completely closed by sea ice. Every technique and possible landing area was used to try and get the boats and visitors off the shore, including man-hauling a Zodiac over the ice. A normal three-hour landing turned into a nine-hour effort to clear the landing site. Nobody was hurt or became hypothermic, and the passengers viewed the event as a bit of excitement and a great bonding event.

The second incident occurred close to Paulet island, where the ice conditions had prevented landing, so it was decided to conduct a Zodiac cruise, as the weather conditions were good: blue skies and no wind. The ice, however, was moving quickly and within 30 minutes of the Zodiacs being in clear water, the ice had moved in. The boats started returning back to the ship, when one of the Zodiacs hit a piece of ice and the engine failed. This Zodiac was soon encircled with ice and the other Zodiacs were unable to pull him out. Finally, the ship managed to break a clear channel for the Zodiac to escape into clear water. In total the Zodiac was stuck for a period of 75 minutes, but fortunately there were no injuries or hypothermia and the operation ended safely.

A common factor in both these cases was that it was a blue-sky day with no wind, but deceptive tidal currents. With both situations, the ELs were highly experienced and dealt with the problems calmly. Thus, other than delays, there were no real issues.

Lessons learned

Incidents will always happen. The trick is to ensure that firstly, those involved have the right skill sets to deal with what is happening and secondly, that lessons are learned.  Each incident provides useful reminders and opportunities for field staff to become more experienced and learn from the episode.

Feedback from the EL on the Brown Bluff incident noted that changes in wind speed, current and tides all played a role in being caught by the ice. For example, these experiences highlight the usefulness of having one or more people responsible for watching the movement of ice, and good coordination with the bridge. Get the bridge to give regular updates, without necessarily being asked, as they have a higher vantage point to those on the landing site. It is always a good idea during Zodiac cruises to buddy up by using two boats, with each always watching out for the other.

Be hyper-vigilant in ice and, of course, when doing Zodiac cruises around icebergs, please ensure that you don’t go over the foot of the iceberg; remain far enough away from the iceberg so that if it should roll or a bit breaks off that you and your guests are not injured by falling ice. Pleneau this season has had very tightly packed icebergs, so it is an area to be super careful when cruising around the bergs. It is worthwhile to refresh your memory on the guidelines for small boat operations in the vicinity of ice.”

I think the above reinforces not just the wild nature of Antarctica, but also the amazing levels of skill and training which Antarctic teams undergo in order to ensure that visitors are kept safe. These people are more than your average tour guides!

If you want to join us in Antarctica, we have some fantastic new options for expedition cruises to Antarctica for the 2013/14 season. Or call us on 01273 676 712, we’re here 9am-6.30pm GMT on weekdays.

Oct 012012
 
canopy Dont try this at home... (Pt 2)

Dave is hard at work in Costa Rica, testing out the canopy

 

Unleash your inner Tarzan

Zip Wire. Zip Trek. Zipline. It goes by many names, but it basically involves wearing a rather undignified (and rather uncomfortable to certain areas) harness by which you get attached to a steel cable in order to sail through the upper reaches of the forest. Costa Rica (and, increasingly, Nicaragua) are nuts for it – here it goes simply by the name of “Canopy.”

Depending on your appetite for heights and adrenaline, this is either one of the most fun and exciting things you can do on your trip, or something not to be touched with a bargepole. In Costa Rica you can literally find this everywhere you go, often having been extended to incorporate abseiling / rappelling / hanging bridges / “Tarzan Swing” (you swing attached to a rope hanging vertically) / and sometimes even climbing.

Having tried this out once before (in British Columbia, the home of the concept), I was delighted to see this on offer all over the place. Certainly surprised though to see it even at Tortuguero, given its absolutely flat, sea level location! As Tortuguero is often featured at the start of a Costa Rica trip though, it’s a great chance to have a first taste of the fun for those a little unsure of the benefits…