Jan 152013
 
 Antarctica a wild frontier

Handling zodiacs in Antarctica may look easy but it ain’t!

As members of IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators), we are kept up to date with all sorts of news from the ‘white continent’. Yesterday I got an email newsletter aimed at the field staff of Antarctic ships which reminded me just how wild Antarctica is.

There’s a danger that we think of everywhere being tamed by human technology whereas in fact, there is still very much an element of the unknown and unpredictable when it comes to Antarctica. This is worth bearing in mind for anyone considering a cruise to Antarctica though of course it’s precisely its wild nature which attracts so many of us in the first place.

This week one of the Silversea Cruises had to turn back about 8 days into a voyage to South Georgia and Antarctica because of the severity of the seas – this is in early January. Luckily nobody appears to be hurt but it’s telling that despite all of the preparations and experience, a large, luxurious ship can be sent back to port by the weather.

On a smaller scale, it seems that the ice has been misbehaving this year:

The ice conditions have been a little problematic this year and there have been a number of incidents involving ice closing in on operations. We prefer not to provide the ships’ names here but two incidents were reported in December. The first was at Brown Bluff during a blue-sky day with almost no wind. During the landing, the sea ice moved in very quickly and before the EL (expedition leader) could get all the passengers back to the landing site, the site was completely closed by sea ice. Every technique and possible landing area was used to try and get the boats and visitors off the shore, including man-hauling a Zodiac over the ice. A normal three-hour landing turned into a nine-hour effort to clear the landing site. Nobody was hurt or became hypothermic, and the passengers viewed the event as a bit of excitement and a great bonding event.

The second incident occurred close to Paulet island, where the ice conditions had prevented landing, so it was decided to conduct a Zodiac cruise, as the weather conditions were good: blue skies and no wind. The ice, however, was moving quickly and within 30 minutes of the Zodiacs being in clear water, the ice had moved in. The boats started returning back to the ship, when one of the Zodiacs hit a piece of ice and the engine failed. This Zodiac was soon encircled with ice and the other Zodiacs were unable to pull him out. Finally, the ship managed to break a clear channel for the Zodiac to escape into clear water. In total the Zodiac was stuck for a period of 75 minutes, but fortunately there were no injuries or hypothermia and the operation ended safely.

A common factor in both these cases was that it was a blue-sky day with no wind, but deceptive tidal currents. With both situations, the ELs were highly experienced and dealt with the problems calmly. Thus, other than delays, there were no real issues.

Lessons learned

Incidents will always happen. The trick is to ensure that firstly, those involved have the right skill sets to deal with what is happening and secondly, that lessons are learned.  Each incident provides useful reminders and opportunities for field staff to become more experienced and learn from the episode.

Feedback from the EL on the Brown Bluff incident noted that changes in wind speed, current and tides all played a role in being caught by the ice. For example, these experiences highlight the usefulness of having one or more people responsible for watching the movement of ice, and good coordination with the bridge. Get the bridge to give regular updates, without necessarily being asked, as they have a higher vantage point to those on the landing site. It is always a good idea during Zodiac cruises to buddy up by using two boats, with each always watching out for the other.

Be hyper-vigilant in ice and, of course, when doing Zodiac cruises around icebergs, please ensure that you don’t go over the foot of the iceberg; remain far enough away from the iceberg so that if it should roll or a bit breaks off that you and your guests are not injured by falling ice. Pleneau this season has had very tightly packed icebergs, so it is an area to be super careful when cruising around the bergs. It is worthwhile to refresh your memory on the guidelines for small boat operations in the vicinity of ice.”

I think the above reinforces not just the wild nature of Antarctica, but also the amazing levels of skill and training which Antarctic teams undergo in order to ensure that visitors are kept safe. These people are more than your average tour guides!

If you want to join us in Antarctica, we have some fantastic new options for expedition cruises to Antarctica for the 2013/14 season. Or call us on 01273 676 712, we’re here 9am-6.30pm GMT on weekdays.

Nov 162011
 
lunatics Antarctic Ice Marathon

Serious kit, serious conditions, seriously bonkers...

Fancy a bit of a challenge?

We think this one takes the biscuit. How about running a marathon or 100km? Now try doing it in the coldest, windiest, highest, driest continent on the planet. Yes, the 2011 Antarctic Ice Marathon is upon us!

Held at 80 Degrees South, at the foot of the Ellsworth Mountains, just a few hundred miles away from the South Pole the Antarctic Ice Marathon is the southernmost marathon, beating its nearest rival by a margin of about 3,000km!

As if a normal marathon isn’t daunting enough, here you are guaranteed no crowds, not even penguins, and an average temperature of -20C, oh, and 50kmh winds and a dash of 700m altitude.

I have to say that reading the testimonials from 2010 does rather pique my interest as it’s just so bonkers though in all honesty a rather more manageable Antarctic Cruise is probably more realistic.

You’re too late for the 2011 event which happens on the 30th November but 2012 registration.

If the spirit of Christmas is upon you, policewoman Yvonne Brown is running the marathon this year in aid of the Neuroblastoma Alliance. This is an aggressive form of childhood cancer which took away Yvonne’s Jack two years ago and earlier this year took away Felix down here in Hove.

Visit Yvonne Brown’s Just Giving Page .

Mar 232011
 
antarctic1 Antarctica Review

Penguins on an iceberg in Antarctica

This is some really interesting feedback from a recent client who travelled on board Antarctic Dream for her cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula. I think this gives you a sense of the rough and the smooth of the  experience, and hopefully explains why we will not promote the ‘fly cruise’ options now coming on line whereby you simply fly over the Drake Passage.

Antarctica is an absolutely extraordinary experience, although mother nature definitely makes you work for it – the crossing of Drake’s Passage takes 2 days and although it’s known to be the roughest stretch of water in the world, we weren’t prepared for 14mtr waves and force 9 winds!

R toughed it out much better than I did and managed, at least, to leave the cabin at meal times, whereas I spent the entire crossing either vomiting or passed out on sea-sickness tablets. At least we had a decent cabin, thanks to our surprise honeymoon upgrade icon smile Antarctica Review

Although the journey is hell, the rewards are so worth it – I’ve never seen anywhere so peaceful and vast and pure and savage all at the same time. Whilst it’s stillness and beauty appears  unthreatening, it actually belies an incredibly hostile environment.

For starters, if you fell in the water, you’d need to be rescued within about 3mins if you’ve any chance of survival! Now, we’ve watched more than our fair share of David Attenborough, so were excited enough as it is to be seeing it all for real, but it’s so much more impressive in the flesh.

The enormity of the glaciers and icebergs blows you away – we were lucky enough to make it into the Weddel Sea, where the pack ice stretches as far as the eye can see and the icebergs are all as large as apartment blocks. If even a small piece chips and falls to the water it makes a sound like cracking thunder and causes disturbing waves – when they split and divide, they cause mini tsunamis and I can only imagine the noise… when the ice below the water (usually 8x bigger than the ice that protrudes) has been eroded away, they flip, literally in an instant!

For me, the highlight was scooting alongside a group of humpback whales in a little zodiac – being up close and personal with these beasts in their natural environment was exhilarating. You’d hang over the side, camera in hand, feeling untouchable in your little rubber dinghy, then see their white bellies glide out from underneath you as they rotate and surface just metres away… gulp…wow!

The seals and penguin rookeries are also amazing to see. You can literally walk amongst hundreds of thousands of penguins on one island and, as long as you respect their ‘highways’ and nest, they won’t even flinch. We ended the trip with a jaunt into the water filled crater of the volcano at Deception Island – where else can you do that!? Anyway, the pictures say a lot but really “you had to be there”. Superb!

You should only visit Antarctica if you can face the crossing. It’s a means of sorting the wheat from the chaff and making sure that only the most committed visit this most precious of places. It may be uncomfortable to make the crossing but it heightens the experience once you are there. If it was easy, visitors wouldn’t value it as much.

Secondly, most importantly, Drakes Passage keeps visitor numbers down. Increased flights down to Antarctica is not something we welcome as a positive development.