May 032013
 
hiram bingham resting peru 615nat geo We named the dog Thierry.

Thierry Jamin: 21st Century Bingham, or rotter? ( National Geographic)

In my travels I’ve visited a fair few archaeological sites such as Machu Picchu, Kuelap, Tikal, and various other magnificent ruins of ancient civilisations. I’ve certainly harboured quite a few fantasies of stumbling across a jungle-enshrouded temple myself, fuelled, no doubt, by a healthy enthusiasm for Indiana Jones and lesser imitations. That’s what you get for growing up in the ‘80s. To be fair, I’ve done little about it other than daydream about setting off randomly into northern Peru (where folk in the know reckon there’s actually more than a few undiscovered sites).

That’s why a recent story caught my eye, about a Frenchman currently endeavouring to uncover the tomb of the Inca Pachacutec, which he believes to be located in a relatively recently discovered chamber in Machu Picchu. Thierry Jamin heads up the ‘Instituto Inkari,’ an NGO based in Cusco, whose remit is, ‘scientific research, the protection and the development of archeological sites existing on the Peruvian national territory.’ Having been out in Peru for many years seeking the unlikely ‘Gran Paititi,’ (aka El Dorado), in 2011 a much more tangible prospect emerged, when someone found what appeared to be a previously unnoticed entry way in Peru’s most emblematic site.

With the help of some electromagnetic gear, Thierry and his crew announced they had verified the existence of underground cavities, including a large rectangular room, and some steps, alongside some ‘possible’ archaeological materials / metal. Given that most people have long given up the idea that there’s some great ‘Lost City’ still lurking out there, the idea that we could yet see some kind of “Incan Tutankhamen” scenario admittedly quickens the pulse. While one could argue that Machu Picchu is suitably exciting enough, it is, after all, a century since its discovery, so perhaps it’s about time it coughed up something new?

Incidentally, they actually have unearthed several amazing tombs in Peru in recent years, with significant rulers fully intact with their burial booty – they just didn’t happen to be Incas, who are the ones who sell the tickets.

Back to Thierry. The next step, obviously, was to open up the tomb, hope there were no nasty curses waiting to pop out, and revel in the glory of being a real-life ‘Indy.’ And here’s where it gets even more interesting, as the Peruvian Ministry of Culture turned down his request on a number of occasions in 2012. Things went further south this year, as apparently the French Minister of Foreign Affairs warned the Peruvian ambassador that Jamin is not a proper archaeologist, and had no scientific training. Evidently the message was that letting him run amok in Machu Picchu would be akin to lobbing a border collie into a small room full of glass vases. It subsequently transpired that he received death threats, (perhaps from someone who really cared about the threat to Peru’s patrimony?).

A quick browse on Thierry’s websites and several others has him depicted as anything from a noble man of science and history seeking out exhilarating archaeological secrets, to a lowdown huaquero (tomb robber). So, 21st Century Hiram Bingham, or a serious threat to South America’s most famous historical site? The story, I suspect, has a way to run…

If you’d like to see what all the fuss is about, you can delve into Machu Picchu’s secrets yourself on one of our Peru holidays.

 

 

 

Feb 212013
 

ledger Whats in a Name?

Payments ‘off the books,’ are probably best to be kept out of your ledger, Sr. Barcenas

The Bard had a point when he said that names can be deceiving. Especially so, apparently, when it comes to Spain’s political parties. The Partido Popular translates literally as the People’s Party, and for an English speaker, the connotation of the Popular Party is unavoidable. Either translation would appear to be wildly inaccurate at the moment. Spain’s ruling PP has been the subject of intense media scrutiny these past few weeks.

The furore stems from the publication in El País of ledgers allegedly scribed by Luis Barcenas, former Treasurer of the party. These revealed a number of payments to leading members of the party over several years, including the current Prime Minister, Mariano Rajoy. The payments, it is alleged, were funded by illegal party financing made by construction tycoons, in a ‘kickback for contracts’ type scenario. It should be noted that the PP are adamant the ledgers are false.

This might sound like it comes out of a Sopranos script, and certainly makes fiddling your expenses for the odd duck house seem trivial. Even more so when you hear that Barcenas is claimed to have a Swiss bank account with some €22m in it. With Spanish unemployment at over 25%, headlines such as, ‘Why is Spain so corrupt?’ and rumblings that this is ‘Rajoy’s Watergate,’ it’s no surprise that the emotions of the party, the press, and the people are running high.

The PP’s popularity, of course, is not. Recently they polled at around half the support levels they had when they gained office. It’s one thing to bear the brunt of austerity when the situation can be blamed on the elusive ‘global financial crisis,’ quite another when you hear that the leaders imposing the austerity are sitting on bank accounts laden with kickbacks.

Like Britain, Spain can usually turn from political antagonisms and take comfort in the largely popular royal family. Now even this is denied them, as Iñaki Urdangarín, former Olympic handball player and husband of the Infanta Cristina, is accused of embezzling public funds, fraud and corruption. His bail was set at over €8m.

Whatever the truth of ledgers and backhanders, (and chances are it will be a long time before we ever find out the truth), none of this helps Spain on its road to economic recovery. We can only hope that resolution is swift, and Spain can move towards a brighter political and economic outlook. Failing that, perhaps Pedro Almodovar will make a good film about the corruption scandal.

Jun 302012
 
Sergio Flower Walking in a Costa Rican country garden

Our guide Sergio demonstrates how the "hot lips" flower appeals to the hummingbird

While throughout much of a trip through Costa Rica, one is preoccupied with thoughts of monkeys, birds and the like, it can be easy to overlook the rather spectacular flora, which is of course irrevocably linked to that fauna. From time to time a stunning orchid or a bright bromeliad will certainly catch your eye, but by their nature, the most spectacular plants do not usually cluster together. For this reason, an unexpected highlight of my visit was the stop at the Else Kientzler Botanical Gardens, in Sarchi just a little way north of San Jose.

These gardens are absolutely stunning, featuring over 2,000 species of tropical tree, plant and flower, and are a fantastic place to while away a couple of hours. They are a natural attraction for butterflies and birds. The attractive layout, complete with miniature lakes and shady swing seats, makes for one of the most tranquil experiences in a country that has become rather enamoured of adrenaline-fuelled activities in most parts. If you have children though, there is a small adventure playground in any case for a little adrenaline.

The gardens are situated perfectly for a stop-off on the way to or from areas such as Arenal and Monteverde, or just as a day trip from San Jose. They are just outside Sarchi, a town renowned for two things: 1) quality and abundance of handicrafts; and 2) the largest ox cart in the world. As someone whose house groans under the weight of Latin America handicrafts, I was extremely wowed by the ox cart!

Our Costa Rica holidays offer a wealth of flora and fauna.