The smoking rim of Masaya Volcano
Bit of a dramatic one this, taken at the summit of Masaya volcano in Nicaragua. That cloud isn’t a handy prop to set the mood, it’s actually smoke rising from the crater itself – the sky was a clear blue behind me.
Even without the spectral presence of the cross looming over the crater, the knowledge that you are standing right next to the gaping mouth of an active volcano does add a certain frisson to proceedings.
Despite being one of the country’s shortest volcanoes at a little over 630 metres, Masaya is also one of the most active. Back in 1993, a lava lake filled the base of the central caldera and it is still possible to glimpse the orange glow between the billowing clouds of smoke.
Occasional eruptions aside, Masaya’s history is also steeped in drama of a different kind. The Spanish, never shy of an evocative turn-of-phrase, believed it to be a place of evil and dubbed it “La Boca del Infierno”, or “The Mouth of Hell”.
They were responsible for erecting the first cross on the lip of the crater where the current one stands, to exorcise the Devil from the fiery depths below.
Indigenous people before them were a little more creative, dropping unfortunate virgin girls into the volcano to appease the evil spirits within.
Years later, this method also proved popular with President Somoza, who – according to my guide – used it less as a form of religious mollification and more as a convenient way of disposing of political nuisances.
With all this mythology it is easy to forget what Masaya actually is: an awesome natural phenomenon. Peering into the smoky depths is undeniably eerie, but also incredibly thrilling.
Some of the locals at least have made peace with the demonic volcano: arrive in the late afternoon and you can see pairs of small green parrots returning to their nests inside the caldera. Thousands of these tiny creatures, known as chocoyos, have made their home here, impervious to the noxious fumes and inhospitable terrain. And, it seems, the evil spirits.
Find out more about Pura Aventura’s holidays to Nicaragua
Sunset over Volcan Concepcion seen from Totoco lodge on the Island of Ometepe, Nicaragua
I’m quite a sucker for a good sunset, so Totoco Lodge on Ometepe Island was my idea of paradise. This was taken from the balcony of my cabin on my first (and only) night there and it still gives me tingles to remember it.
I was on a whistle stop tour of the island in May, towards the end of the country’s dry season. I had spent most of the day dashing around, trying to see as much as possible during my short time there. This had mainly involved struggling to hold on to my lunch whilst navigating the more rustic roads on the eastern side, or “getting a free massage” as my guide eloquently put it.
The day had been incredibly hot, so I arrived at the lodge in a rather dubious state of repair. Quite fortunately I was one of only three guests so I got a whole private cabin to myself. Actually at the time of visiting the lodge only had two cabins, nestled on the hillside next to the organic garden and overlooking the lake and mighty Concepcion volcano. They have since added two more, both private and with a similarly stunning setting.
The lodge itself is the brainchild of three friends and only opened in January this year. The focus is very much on sustainability and the owners involve the community as much as possible. This includes a dedicated development centre, a hub for local community projects. Accommodation is rustic but thoughtfully crafted, right down to the handmade furniture and composting toilet.
The setting itself is the real star, however. I had just enough time to dump my bags and splash my face before heading out onto the balcony to capture this photo. Truth be told I got a bit carried away and ended up seriously editing my memory card that night. Not being a natural photographer I couldn’t believe my luck at capturing so many great shots, with next to no skill required on my part.
I did manage to put the camera down in the end however and just soak up the majesty of it. Watching those colours play across the gathering clouds, with only the lazy chirrup of the local cicadas as company, is a moment that will stay with me for a long time. At the risk of sounding like a Hallmark card, just seeing the image again back here in rainy Blighty warms my heart a little.
Read more about our Nicaragua holidays.