Views from the Arenal Observatory Lodge, Costa Rica
The Arenal Volcano is one of the most visited areas in Costa Rica. It’s easy to see why – there’s a colossal volcano sticking up out of flat farmland. And it explodes, a lot. In fact I think it is considered the world’s most consistently active volcano.
The image of red hot lava pouring forth into the night sky is a staple of Arenal tourist promotion. And yet, you can only see this from one side of the volcano. The crater tantalisingly changes shape periodically to expose the lava flows to different directions.
Its first eruption in recorded history or memory was 1968. Until then, the locals thought it was just a big hill. In fact they called it ‘El Cerro’, the hill. Presumably they got an almighty shock when it suddenly erupted in their midst.
The scars from that first, most major, eruption are still very much in evidence in the immediate vicinity of the volcano. Black sand, lava fields and very patchy vegetation. This despite Arenal being basically in tropical lowlands where, if you threw a peach stone out of the window in the morning you’d be harvesting peaches by the afternoon.
The way things are set out at Arenal is that there is one main road which loops around the north side of the volcano. To the south is more or less national park, very little in the way of population.
At the moment, and for the last 18 months or so, the crater has been exposed to the south. There is just one hotel to the south of the crater, the Arenal Observatory Lodge.
To get that priceless view of red hot lava against the night sky, you really have to go to the Observatory Lodge. The hotels to the north of the volcano can’t wait for a big explosion to clear their view of the lava!
The Observatory Lodge is very close to the volcano as it was originally created as an observation point for the Smithsonian Institute. It feels somewhat like a scientific institute still – certainly the older rooms do. You don’t come here for luxury though it’s comfortable enough. Rooms are en suite and the service is friendly.
You do come here for the views at night. I should say the possible views at night since Arenal volcano is so often coated in cloud.
You also come to the Observatory Lodge to look for birds, it has an extraordinary list of species.
You might also come here because it is significantly higher than the town of La Fortuna and the other hotels in the Arenal area. Something like 600m higher. That makes all the difference in terms of temperature. While La Fortuna sweats, the Observatory Lodge enjoys cool evenings and night times.
This photos probably sums up the Observatory Lodge quite well. A couple sitting out birdwatching, the enormous volcano ahead, covered in cloud. The peeling paint on the decking (it’s due to be repainted right around now).
What the photo doesn’t capture is that the volcano is very, very active at the moment. This means that every hour or so, there was a very large explosion. Much like thunder, at times far louder than that. While I was here there was an explosion loud enough that even the local guides ducked.
Just after the explosion, you would see boulders cascading down the blackened slopes of the volcano. During the day they just look like large grey boulders. At night, you see that they are in fact glowing red.
It really is spectacular.
I should add that the Observatory Lodge is in fact several miles from the volcano so you are very safe. I should also add that you don’t necessarily have to stay here to enjoy the nighttime pyrotechnics.
You can pay a few dollars to come into the Observatory’s grounds. There are lots of self guided trails through the forests. You can then stay for dinner at the restaurant before heading back round to your hotel on the north side.
A word or two of warning and advice:
1) It’s really only worth going there if it’s likely to be a relatively clear night.
2) Go mid-afternoon to enjoy the grounds and surroundings. The lodge lies just beyond the Arenal National Park and other places you should visit when in the area.
3) The Observatory Lodge is 9km off the main, paved, road. That means 9km of dirt road. If you stay for dinner, you’ll be driving it in the dark. It’s not a problem per-se but you really do need to be cautious when driving on dirt roads. Doubly so after dark.
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The smoking rim of Masaya Volcano
Bit of a dramatic one this, taken at the summit of Masaya volcano in Nicaragua. That cloud isn’t a handy prop to set the mood, it’s actually smoke rising from the crater itself – the sky was a clear blue behind me.
Even without the spectral presence of the cross looming over the crater, the knowledge that you are standing right next to the gaping mouth of an active volcano does add a certain frisson to proceedings.
Despite being one of the country’s shortest volcanoes at a little over 630 metres, Masaya is also one of the most active. Back in 1993, a lava lake filled the base of the central caldera and it is still possible to glimpse the orange glow between the billowing clouds of smoke.
Occasional eruptions aside, Masaya’s history is also steeped in drama of a different kind. The Spanish, never shy of an evocative turn-of-phrase, believed it to be a place of evil and dubbed it “La Boca del Infierno”, or “The Mouth of Hell”.
They were responsible for erecting the first cross on the lip of the crater where the current one stands, to exorcise the Devil from the fiery depths below.
Indigenous people before them were a little more creative, dropping unfortunate virgin girls into the volcano to appease the evil spirits within.
Years later, this method also proved popular with President Somoza, who – according to my guide – used it less as a form of religious mollification and more as a convenient way of disposing of political nuisances.
With all this mythology it is easy to forget what Masaya actually is: an awesome natural phenomenon. Peering into the smoky depths is undeniably eerie, but also incredibly thrilling.
Some of the locals at least have made peace with the demonic volcano: arrive in the late afternoon and you can see pairs of small green parrots returning to their nests inside the caldera. Thousands of these tiny creatures, known as chocoyos, have made their home here, impervious to the noxious fumes and inhospitable terrain. And, it seems, the evil spirits.
Find out more about Pura Aventura’s holidays to Nicaragua
A canopy walkway peeking through the trees at Arenal
To me, this photo epitomizes real Costa Rica. I say “real” because in the last few years there has been an influx of both tourists and ex-pats who have undeniably left their mark on both the landscape and culture. There is no escaping the fact that in the large tourist areas, it’s as easy to get a Big Mac now as a traditional gallo pinto.
With an established infrastructure, friendly locals, some very chi-chi hotels and an array of adventurous pastimes, Costa Rica’s popularity is, of course, understandable. Being able to hop into a hire car and head off on a whim is obviously very tempting. Supping a rum-laced cocktail in your own private Jacuzzi, watching incandescent lava trails snake down Arenal volcano, is positively irresistible.
And that’s even before you’ve had your fourth drenching of the week on the way to work, umbrella akimbo, rushing for the number 28 bus.
But in spite of all that, the frills and creature comfort are not really what Costa Rica is about, at its heart. Head off the tourist trail and you are in a world of wildlife-rich jungle, rolling hillsides dotted with bubbling mud pots and cloudforests straight from a Peter Jackson film.
Even at Arenal, where the famous volcano has prompted a smattering of new hotels to cope with rising visitor numbers, it is possible to find some peace. This photo was taken from the Hanging Bridges, a series of discreet canopy walkways hidden between the trees.
Behind me was an equally stunning view across the valley to the mighty volcano, smoking moodily in the afternoon light. The only noise was the occasional squawk of a toucan, or a belch from the volcano itself.
So, perhaps one of the best things about Costa Rica is that you can have both. Spend the day rafting down a jungle river, then enjoy a freshly prepared, three-course meal by candlelight at a remote lodge huddled between the trees.
Or explore the forested trails of Corcovado – the “most biologically intense place on earth” according to National Geographic, before picking up a pot of freshly caught shrimp from a beachside soda in Dominical and settling down on the golden sands.
Even if you do get caught in a downpour (Costa Rica is green for a reason, you know), it will certainly be more palatable with that rum cocktail to hand.
You can experience both sides of Costa Rica on our Costa Rica Self drive holiday.
Read about our Costa Rica holidays or read our guide to Costa Rica.