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I took the photo above not in 2004 but in 2019. Given all the talk of over-tourism and crowds, I had been expecting something quite different. There was not another soul at Machu Picchu. It was priceless. And just to prove I'm not cheating with t...
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Having visited Portugal a handful of times, I'd never actually made it further north than Guimaraes. To me, this was already the proper north and I couldn’t expect anything else really special in this small corner of this small country. Although, ...
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<< Part 4: People power For all the warmth of the people, for as much as I was charmed by Girona and for as much as I enjoyed our trip back to ancient times at Empúries, I simply would never have been here had it not been for the mountains....
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<< Part 3: Sunrise over the Costa Brava | Part 5: The high Pyrenees >> The winemaker When admiring photos of pristine pine forests, plunging silvery waterfalls and sweeping glacial valleys, it's rather easy to forget that the Pyrenee...
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<< Part 2: Empordá | Part 4: People of the Pyrenees >> Chasing the sun At 06:48 on a cold late-September morning, we were among a handful of people to be the first to see the sunrise over the Iberian Peninsula that day. The rugged fe...
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< Part 1: Girona | Part 3: Sunrise over the Costa Brava > An ancient city of two halves Car keys in hand, maps leading east. To the coast, to another age, of Mediterranean trading, of great empires. Empúries was first settled by the Greek...
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