The empty beaches of Boipeba Island in Brazil's Bahia region
It’s February, it’s a bit dreary here in the UK and so I’ve decided to go with an image of a beach.
Not just any beach mind you, this is the main beach on the island of Boipeba in Brazil’s Bahia region. That’s up in the north east of the country.
You can get to Boipeba by ferry or air taxi (read ‘puddle jumper’) from the city of Salvador via the fairly well visited island neighbour of Morro do Sao Paolo. Then it’s a short boat ride across the estuary and you hop off on the end of the beach, next to the small bar (just behind where this picture was taken).
If you look carefully up on the bluff almost exactly in the middle of the frame, you will see some small buildings – thats the pousada we use. Set up by a friend of ours called Leandro and his wife. Your bags are carried by one of the gardeners in a wheelbarrow as you stroll along the beach towards your room on a hill.
The pousada itself is charming, comfortable, professional, laid-back, and enviro-responsible (solar heated water, recycled paper, energy saving bulbs, etc).
Rooms are in separate (all detached or semi-detached) bungalow units with balconies facing either East (for sunrise) or West (for sunset). They are all very private, have super comfortable king-size beds and hammocks on the balcony.
The gardens are beautifully kept, including an large cashew tree which fruits in November. There’s a newly completed swimming pool with a good sized deck around it with views down to the woods and sea below.
So that’s where I’d like to be right now, swinging in a hammock looking out over the beaches and forests of Bopieba.
But what’s the island itself like? Well, Boipeba feels remote, safe, friendly, unspoilt but without being a wilderness. The lack of cars and crowds is a big bonus. Just to reiterate that point, there are no roads, just some tracks and tractors.
It’s obviously set up for tourists (mostly Brazilian with some Europeans) but in a very low-key way. It doesn’t feel like a resort. The beaches are beautiful, the water warm and calm and the scenery behind is also gorgeous. The walking is easy and the temperature isn’t overbearing thanks to the light breeze.
I did most of my walking (inland and shoreline) barefoot – the entire island seems to be made of sand and very comfortable (and easiest) to walk barefoot as long as the sand isn’t too hot.
For lazing around, there’s a great variety of beaches – some would be perfect for families with children, others for couples, others for surfing etc. There are two great options within 10 minutes walk of the pousada and several more within a pleasant hour’s walk. You’re well looked after and in a very special place without it feeling like a resort.
For more active options, there’s a good list of things to do on land (walking, riding and cultural) and on the water (kayaking, exploring in a boat, swimming in the natural pools, fishing, etc.). Activities can be organised at very short notice so there’s great flexibility to accommodate mood and groups.
Who is Boipeba for?
Families – yes though probably best from 5 to pre-teen and for families who like to combine lazing with being active. The position of the pousada up high and layout of the rooms (larger rooms to share or next-door pairs) makes it safe and the parents can have some grown-up time in the evenings
Couples – yes undoubtedly a great honeymoon or other holiday visit anywhere from 3 to 7 days. It’s comfortable, peaceful, intimate, laid-back and professional.
It’s not for someone looking for luxury and being waited on hand and foot and high cuisine, nor is it for anyone who can’t manage a short walk and a flight or two of steps. If someone wants a beach-side flop and drop resort, this would be a bit of a waste.
Have a look here if you are now tempted to go on our Bahia Blend holiday to Brazil
Alternatively, read our holiday guide to Brazil
Royal Caribbean's Labadee resort on Haiti
This morning I was stopped in my tracks by a piece by Mike Thomson on Radio 4′s Today programme about the child slaves of Haiti. It was particularly timely given this week’s maiden voyage of the collosal cruise ship, Oasis of the Seas, to Haiti.
A few days ago I posted a comment along the lines of ‘my idea of hell’ on Twitter in response to a BBC website piece from on board the Oasis of the Seas. I’m not going to pretend that my opinions are unbiased, I just do not like the idea of being on a floating behemoth staring out at the world passively ticking off sites seen.
After I saw the images of the ship, I went onto the Royal Caribbean website to see where on earth they were going to park this vast ship.
Being one of the worlds’ poorest countires, I’ll admit to being surprised when I saw Haiti on their list of ports. But then it’s not really Haiti as you might imagine, it’s certainly not the Haiti of the child slaves, it’s an enclave on the north coast called Labadee.
Labadee appears to be a slab of Haiti privately owned by Royal Caribbean for the exclusive use of its cruise guests. It’s a massive beach theme park by the looks of it. Zip lines, water park, swim up bars, jet skis. Not my cup of tea by any means but clearly many of the +/- 350,000 annual visitors have a great time. As of today, Labadee is the number one attraction in Haiti according to Trip Advisor.
Now for the other side of the equation.
As one might expect, the Mike Thomson piece was generally very upsetting. It would seem that there are families so poor that they give away their children to better off families in the hope that they will be fed, clothed and educated. What many of these children are actually delivered into is a life of slavery.
So, how on earth am I going to tie the Oasis of the Seas to a piece on child slavery in Haiti?
Just to get this absolutely straight, I don’t claim any link between the two. I’m just struck by the acute juxtaposition of the cruise resort and Haiti’s extraordinary poverty and misery.
In my opinion, it is a great privilege to be able to travel and see incredible places. But with that privilege comes the responsibility to travel with open eyes and open minds.
That’s reflected in our holidays. If you come on holiday to Peru with us you will see amazing things and stay in charming, comfortable places, meet interesting people. You will also see some poverty, you will see at least some of the contrasts and toughness of everyday life for many people in Peru.
I don’t see how a large cruise ship or a ring-fenced resort can ever offer passengers a meaningful interaction with a destination. I don’t think that makes for responsible or sustainable tourism, at least as I see it.
So, in the great tradition of more questions than answers, here are some questions:
1) Would it be better if Royal Caribbean didn’t go to Haiti at all?
2) Even if their presence is of only very marginal benefit to the island, is something better than nothing?
3) Do passengers know what’s on the other side of the fence? Do they care?
4) Should they?
5) Is large ship cruising fundamentally irreconcilable with responsible tourism?
6) Am I just ‘having a go’ because I don’t like the idea of floating around trapped in a massive hotel with nearly 6,000 other people?
I would really love to hear other people’s thoughts on this.
By the way, the Radio 4 piece is in three parts. The remaining pieces are to be broadcast tomorrow, Friday, and presumably Saturday of this week. Please do try to listen, it is one of those peices which reminds you that radio remains a remarkably powerful medium.